{"id":6277,"date":"2010-11-27T08:45:51","date_gmt":"2010-11-27T13:45:51","guid":{"rendered":"\/?p=6277"},"modified":"2010-10-13T15:50:26","modified_gmt":"2010-10-13T20:50:26","slug":"the-tower-of-death","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/?p=6277","title":{"rendered":"The Tower of Death"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We woke up plenty early the next day and wandered into the dining room area of the Hotel Malika in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. We had thought that the breakfast at the Caravan Sarai was luxurious\u2026 well this one took it to a whole new level, with multiple kinds of pastry, two eggs each, black (Russian) and white (Uzbek) breads, 4 different jams, all kinds of sausages, blini with sour cream, a fruit plate, a selection of deep fried shapes,\u00a0 and a personal waiter! It was in all honesty just too much. It made me slightly uncomfortable, resulting in me rushing a bit through my meal.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Regardless, it was with bellies plenty full that we struck out into the bright sunshine to do some more in depth explorations of this most fascinating city called Bukhara, where the post boxes look like this.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80151151.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6461\" title=\"Post Box in Bukhara\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80151151.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80151151.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80151151-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We took a right turn, delving straight from our hotel into the twisted alleyways that make up Bukhara\u2019s old city. The best we could hope for was that we would get hopelessly lost therein.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025121.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Outside the Malika\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025121.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\"><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">This we achieved with little effort. As we rode, we were continually stumbling upon giant compounds of Uzbek structures, the purpose of which we had no idea, but who\u2019s facades told of long forgotten grandeur and years of neglect.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6495\" title=\"Bukhara&apos;s Old City\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80251181.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80251181.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P80251181-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We rode along until we noticed this interestingly ornate plaque, which we would be more than grateful is someone more fluent in Russian than I could shed some light on in the comments.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025126.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6492\" title=\"Russian Engraved Message\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025126.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025126.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025126-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We continued to ride on, getting deeper and more lost in the city. We noticed a bakery selling butter cookies, and stopped to but a few, riding on from there, munching as we wheeled.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025134.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6303\" title=\"Butter Cookies\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025134.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025134.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025134-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We continued on, through mostly deserted streets, past giant structures which these days served lord knows what purpose.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025136.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6491\" title=\"Old structures\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025136.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025136.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025136-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">This city felt ancient, frozen in time, remote in a way that no other place we\u2019ve been to has felt.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025145.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6298\" title=\"Bukhara Fortress\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025145.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025145.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025145-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Suddenly, we came upon a giant fortress, which we wheeled up to investigate more closely. It was huge, with very high walls, and bulbous turrets. When we arrived at the central gate to the monster, it seemed to have been turned into some sort of a giant tourist shopping mall\u2026. So, rather than destroy the mystery with some mundane tourist garbage, we just wheeled on, leaving the wonder intact.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We continued to skirt around the great fortress, riding along the base of its walls and moving towards the back of the beast. Many places along the wall, the structure seemed to be dependent on long wooden poles which were plunged directly into the mortar, making them an integral part of the wall. I guess, this being the desert and all, wood does not decompose so quickly as it might in, say, Cambodia.<\/p>\n<iframe class=\"aw-video\" loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Travel video\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube-nocookie.com\/embed\/1zt2hGDemLQ\" allow=\"fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\"><\/iframe>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">From the base of the fortress, we proceeded to loop through a system of back alleys which spilled us out into a central courtyard, over which towered the Kalyan Minaret.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/minaret1.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6477\" title=\"Kalyan Minaret Square\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/minaret1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/minaret1.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/minaret1-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">The Kalyan Minaret, or \u201ctower of death\u201d. \u00a0\u00a0It was built in 1127 and, according to the legend its builder killed a prominent Imam. The Imam appeared to the great Khan (the Mongolian ruler a the time) in a dream and asked that he lay the imam&#8217;s head on a spot where nobody can tread upon it. Thus the tower was built over the murdered Imam&#8217;s grave. It gets the name &#8220;Tower of Death&#8221; because rulers of Bukhara once executed criminals by taking them to the top, sowing them into a black bag and pushing them out, letting gravity do the rest.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Nowadays, one can find an amazing assortment of Uzbek pottery for sale at it\u2019s base. And, remembering that we had a project K9 order in for a platter, we decided to purchase one then and there.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025151.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6295\" title=\"Uzbek Girls and Plates\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025151.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025151.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025151-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">So we counted out a wad of \u0441\u0443\u043c, and bough the thing, but we were not free to go yet, for we were in a gaint market of pottery sellers and having shown now our willingness to fork over \u0441\u0443\u043c, we had to fend off the entire rest of the crowd, who had become increasingly interested in us.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">One way to do that was to distract them with the majesty and glory of the Speed TRs. Unfortunately that leads to requests to take the thing for a spin. And, being the trusting chaps that we are, we agreed. The pottery seller on Scott\u2019s bike came back after only 5 minutes of riding. The fabric merchant who had gotten on mine, however, disappeared without a trace.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025156.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6293\" title=\"Where is my bike?\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025156.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025156.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025156-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">So I sat down in her chair, where she had been selling colorful swatches, and began to wait her out. It was a long wait, and I had made very good friends with the rest of the merchants in the market by the time she arrived back, wearing a new outfit and with her kid sister riding on the rear rack. I thanked her for giving my cycle back, and we wheeled off.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025159.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6291\" title=\"Returning on the Speed TR\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025159.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025159.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025159-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Some people these days\u2026<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Feeling very satisfied with our day\u2019s work, we packed up the platter and headed back to the Malika, where we spent the rest of the afternoon working furiously on correspondence for you, dear reader.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025170.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-6283\" title=\"AsiaWheeling Project K9 Uzbekistan\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025170.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025170.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/P8025170-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We woke up plenty early the next day and wandered into the dining room area of the Hotel Malika in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. We had thought that the breakfast at the Caravan Sarai was luxurious\u2026 well this one took it to a whole new level, with multiple kinds of pastry, two eggs each, black (Russian) and [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9,3,6,48,10,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6277","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-asia","category-pictures","category-scott","category-uzbekistan","category-wheeling","category-woody"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6277","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6277"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6277\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6497,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6277\/revisions\/6497"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6277"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6277"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6277"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}