{"id":2385,"date":"2010-04-03T04:47:34","date_gmt":"2010-04-03T09:47:34","guid":{"rendered":"\/?p=2385"},"modified":"2010-04-05T11:48:01","modified_gmt":"2010-04-05T16:48:01","slug":"krash-into-kandy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/?p=2385","title":{"rendered":"Krash Into Kandy"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img id=\"greasedLightboxPrefetch\" alt=\"\"><img id=\"greasedLightboxPreload\" alt=\"\"><\/p>\n<div id=\"greasedLightbox\"><img id=\"greasedLightboxImage\" alt=\"\"><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We awoke with plenty of time to buy our tickets back at the train  station and do a little exploring on the streets of Colombo. We breakfasted on a kind  of Koththu-house variant across the street from the Hotel Nippon and attempted  to consume coffee, but were only successful in being served hot sweetened  milk and aptly named &#8220;rock&#8221; style cookie.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025650.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2438\" title=\"Rock Cookie\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025650.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025650.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025650-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Still badly in need of caffeine, we headed for the clogged snarl of traffic that marked the entrance to Colombo station. We managed to buy the last two tickets in the Observation Saloon  on the 3:35 train to Kandy and a couple of sticky white plastic cups full of Nescafe. With that were set free to wheel.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5513.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2426\" title=\"Colombo Wheeling\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5513.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5513.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5513-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We decided to wheel south in search of a leather goods  retailer, which Anu had mentioned the night before. You see, dear reader, our humble Mr. Norton&#8217;s shoes  had reached the point of reeking tatters and he was badly in need of new  footwear. However, as the sun beat down, we wheeled on in search of the  place to no avail. Scott has the mixed fortune of a size 13 foot, which makes shoe shopping on some parts of Asiawheeling rather difficult. Finally, we started stopping at random shoe stores,  and requesting giant shoes, and after a few failures were rewarded with a choice between two styles. The  final selection was a pair of smart-looking Greco-Roman sandals, which  you may see handsomely modeled below.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025647.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2436\" title=\"Scott&apos;s New Sandals\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025647.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025647.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025647-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The old tattered shoes were  promptly jettisoned in the shoe shop rubbish bin.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/shoes.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2443\" title=\"Goodbye Shoes\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/shoes.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/shoes.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/shoes-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Back on the road, it was time to eat again,  and we quite randomly made our way to a Sri Lankan fried rice place, where we  purchased a half chicken and a large pile of rice, filled with freshly  chopped vegetables. It was delightful, but not cheap. As we were quickly  learning, food in Sri Lanka was significantly more expensive than in  India. Also, here too we would from time to time find ourselves paying the &#8220;foreigner tax,&#8221; an inflation in the price of the meal by a few times to account for our apparent wealth and ethnicity.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025633.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2435\" title=\"Rice Dish\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025633.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025633.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025633-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>After the meal was done, we wiped our hands with newsprint provided in lieu of napkins on the table.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025632.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2434\" title=\"Newsprint\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025632.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025632.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025632-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Stomachs full, we wheeled back to the Hotel Nippon, and we were greeted warmly by the staff and the owners of nearby businesses. So warmly in fact, that we were not able to leave for the train station without letting a local  electronics merchant take a quick ride on a Speed TR.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025654.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2440\" title=\"Trying out Bike\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025654.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025654.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/P3025654-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>He gave us his \u00a0two cell phones as collateral and grabbed the bike for a joyride.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5522.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2428\" title=\"Riding Speed TR\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5522.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5522.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5522-300x216.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">At the train station, when we attempted  to wheel the speed TRs onto the platform, it had the unintended consequence of creating quite a bit of  ruckus. A group of fellows, in varying levels of official looking garb were motioning us into the baggage room, but we were  resistant. We wanted to keep those cycles as close to us as possible,  and the thought of kissing them goodbye in some dark boxcar at the other  end of the train was none too palatable. Instead of going into the  luggage room, as the many fellows around us seemed to be motioning for  us to do, we decided to entrance them all with a demonstration of the  folding action. As we had hoped, the act of watching the two majestic steeds  collapse into neat little folded metal shapes left the luggage  attendants, station officials, and a great many passers-by quite docile and grinning. We  thanked everyone for their attention, and moved on down the platform.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">As  we walked, we found ourselves accompanied by a fellow advertising  hotels in Kandy to us. We did our very best to politely ignore him, but  he was vehement, and soon was joined by another fellow who  introduced himself as Rodney. We were not sure where our platform was, and these two fellows were quite kind in showing us the way. As we walked, Rodney and his lackey explained to us that they ran a very  affordable and beautiful guest house, and began showing us a book full of  comments from other travelers, pointing in particular to a letter  written by two Swedish tourists claiming &#8220;this fellow is not a tout, he  really does run a beautiful guest house. Thanks Rodney!&#8221;Hmm, I thought, a bit inconclusive.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><iframe class=\"aw-video\" loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Travel video\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube-nocookie.com\/embed\/LcLs1CibYdc\" allow=\"fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We were  still feeling a little dubious of these two chaps when the train arrived. And, with it, we had to focus on other issues.  Fitting the bikes into the Observation Saloon would be tough. It was  packed with people, lacked air conditioning or active fans, and was so  sticky and hot that breathing inside took considerable effort. Rodney  came into the car like superman burst from a telephone booth and began bustling around, making noises that might  be confused with assistance, but really just continuing to work on making a  sale. We did our best to explain that this was a bad time to discuss lodging, as we were  quickly asphyxiating in the Observation Saloon, with our belongings  piled in our seats, leaving us nowhere to seek shelter from the torrent  of nervous sweaty tourists becoming militantly overheated and  pacing the aisles of the observation car in frustration.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Rodney, in an attempt to help us out, motioned to the back of the car, where there was, in  fact, a large and empty room behind us marked &#8220;luggage.&#8221; He even ventured  as far as to go back there and converse for a bit with the guards who  were lazing and smoking cigarettes therein. Unfortunately, after this  conversation, he\u00a0 returned with mumbled apologies, informing us that we  could not use that space.Why? We were not sure. It was part of the Observation Saloon, and marked &#8220;luggage.&#8221; Rodney just kept apologizing, interspersing some key facts about the superiority of his guest house.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">AsiaWheeling was ready to suspend ourselves from the ceiling by our feet, hanging like bats, keeping one eye open to ensure that our bags and bikes stayed safe when it occurred to Scott that another, more personal, request to  the luggage attendants might solicit a more favorable response, and as  the train was whistling its imminent departure, he headed back to begin  negotiations. He reappeared shortly, all smiles, despite his soaking  shirt and red face. We would be able to store the cycles in the luggage  room, but we needed to hurry. The train would leave any moment. And so  we hustled down the platform, handing the cycles up to the guard, and  climbing in after them just as the train started moving. We locked them  to a bench and shook hands with the guards. We made our way back into  the Observation Saloon just in time to see the many tiny fans which hung  from the ceiling spin to life, sending a blessed wind throughout the  compartment.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><iframe class=\"aw-video\" loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Travel video\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube-nocookie.com\/embed\/IKYBcm0WzQM\" allow=\"fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>We bounced on very springy chairs as the sun began to sink toward the horizon. We  climbed out of Colombo and into the sweltering mountainous jungles of  Sri Lanka, past terraced rice fields and tiny villages. We wiled away the train ride, watching the scenery go by, working on correspondence for you, dear reader, and  chatting with our fellow passengers. One was an American, who had so  furious a case of the traveler&#8217;s nerves, that he quite effectively  transmitted them to me. He had been living abroad for many years,  working in Indonesia, India, Kazakhstan, Russia, and Sri Lanka. He was a  government contractor for the U.S. (or The Empire, as he called it),  working with <a title=\"Small and Medium Sized Enterprises\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Small_and_medium_enterprises\" rel=\"noopener\">SMEs<\/a>, as he\u00a0referred\u00a0to them. His outlook was one of  the most pessimistic and jaded I have yet encountered. I found myself, as we spoke with him,  beginning to fear that AsiaWheeling was one big mistake. As he explained  to me how he refused to reveal his nationality to the locals for fear of  violence, I began to question my own representation of myself. I felt a cold ball of fear growing in my stomach as he went on about how the people one meets while one travels may seem friendly, but many  of them want to kill you.<\/p>\n<p>Of course this is malarkey, dear reader, but perhaps you might be willing to forgive me for exiting the train in Kandy in somewhat of a  nervous state. The sun had just fallen behind the tea plantation-covered mountains, and we found\u00a0 ourselves face to face once again with Rodney, who  was kicking his pitch into overdrive. He was offering us free transport  to his place, and I was beginning to have visions of makeshift operating  tables, organs preserved on ice, and rusty IVs snaking their way into  coconuts. Scott, on the other hand, had taken a look at the brochure,  haggled a little over the price and was ready to climb in the car. I  explained to Scott that he would need to handle this, and that I could  not be trusted. So despite my nerves, we climbed into a very tightly  packed sedan. It seemed Rodney had wanted to accompany us in the car,  but it was all we could do to fit the cycles, our packs, Scott, the  driver, and I into the car. So Rodney took a cab, and we made our way to  his hotel.<\/p>\n<p>To Rodney&#8217;s credit, the place was quite nice, his  driver a great chap, and the price quite affordable. To his  discredit, his marketing was <em>way<\/em> too intense, and the place was a decent  ride (uphill) from the town of Kandy. An uphill ride that was just fine  for two strapping young AsiaWheelers, but certainly not an accommodation  to recommend to the very old or very fat. To reach the place,  we needed to drive around a great lake, which partially surrounded the  central attraction in Kandy, the so-called &#8220;Temple of the Tooth.&#8221; The  temple of the tooth is a large Buddhist temple that houses what is  purported to be a tooth of Buddha himself. It unfortunately, had been a  target of the <a title=\"Tamil Tigers\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Liberation_Tigers_of_Tamil_Eelam\" rel=\"noopener\">Liberation Tamil Tiger&#8217;s of Elam<\/a> during the insurgency, so  the main road which ran alongside it had been closed indefinitely, open  only to pedestrians and official traffic. All other traffic had to snake  around the lake. This, it seemed, had been a boon for the many  businesses that had spring up along the far side of the lake. While not as many as in Colombo, here too, we saw many, many heavily armed soldiers and military checkpoints dotting the roadside.<\/p>\n<p>Our  room at Rodney&#8217;s Viewpoint was clean and fresh, with a nice balcony that promised a truly stunning view come sunup. It&#8217;s also true that the  walls were made of thin sheets of corrugated plastic, that the toilet emitted onto the floor a little squirt of foul and reeking water each time you flushed it, and that the  door to the balcony was designed to lock one outside, but we were  overall quite impressed. This little hotel perched on a hill overlooking  Kandy would be a nice place to stay for a few days.<\/p>\n<p>We were  introduced to the staff, who engaged in some very hard selling of  startlingly expensive dinners in the restaurant upstairs, which we were  finally able to politely decline. \u00a0To top it all off, the sign on the door of our room, was like a\u00a0piece\u00a0of psychedelic, non sequitur contemporary art, especially when photographed in low light. \u00a0It reads (when viewed from within the room) &#8220;Please lock the door, \u00a0you are not in the room.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5526.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2429\" title=\"Please Lock the Door.  You are not in the room.\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5526.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5526.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5526-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We paid them for the next few  nights and hopped on the cycles. The ride down into the city was  invigorating and decidedly downhill. Traffic was light, and we took the opportunity to really let the speed TRs eat some road. The city of Kandy spread out below  us like handful of glittering gems nestled in a jungle valley. It was  high time for some more Koththu.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5535.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2431\" title=\"More Koththu\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5535.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5535.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/04\/IMG_5535-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a>\n<\/p>\n<div id=\"greasedLightboxMenu\"><a id=\"greasedLightboxTitleLink\" title=\"Update available (v0.18)\" href=\"http:\/\/shiftingpixel.com\/lightbox\/\" rel=\"noopener\">Greased Lightbox &#8211; Update available (v0.18)<\/a><\/p>\n<div id=\"greasedLightboxButtons\"><a id=\"greasedLightboxButtonRight\" title=\"Next image (right arrow key)\" rel=\"noopener\">\u2192<\/a><a id=\"greasedLightboxButtonLeft\" title=\"Previous image (left arrow key)\" rel=\"noopener\">\u2190<\/a><a id=\"greasedLightboxButtonPlus\" title=\"Magnify image (+ key)\" rel=\"noopener\">+<\/a><a id=\"greasedLightboxButtonMinus\" title=\"Shrink image (- key)\" rel=\"noopener\">&#8211;<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"greasedLightboxLoading\"><img alt=\"\"><\/p>\n<p id=\"greasedLightboxLoadingText\">Loading image<\/p>\n<p id=\"greasedLightboxLoadingHelp\">Click anywhere to cancel<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"greasedLightboxError\">\n<p id=\"greasedLightboxErrorMessage\">Image unavailable\n<\/p>\n<p id=\"greasedLightboxErrorContext\">\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We awoke with plenty of time to buy our tickets back at the train station and do a little exploring on the streets of Colombo. We breakfasted on a kind of Koththu-house variant across the street from the Hotel Nippon and attempted to consume coffee, but were only successful in being served hot sweetened milk [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,34,4,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2385","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-scott","category-sri-lanka","category-video","category-woody"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2385","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2385"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2385\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2527,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2385\/revisions\/2527"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2385"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2385"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2385"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}