{"id":2233,"date":"2010-03-29T05:14:58","date_gmt":"2010-03-29T10:14:58","guid":{"rendered":"\/?p=2233"},"modified":"2010-03-29T07:57:52","modified_gmt":"2010-03-29T12:57:52","slug":"deserts-and-jungles-in-goa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/?p=2233","title":{"rendered":"Deserts and Jungles in Goa"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We awoke to the sound of the surf in our delightful little bungalow at  Cozy Nook. Ours was a little stand-alone hut that hovered about three feet  in the air on a set of stilts, and was built from all kinds of found  materials &#8211; mostly second-hand bits of wood and plastic, with a number of  plastic and canvas tarpaulins spread over the top.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/cozynook.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2337\" title=\"Cozy Nook\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/cozynook.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/cozynook.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/cozynook-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Inside there were a  few cobbled-together solutions meeting the need for cabinetry, and a large  bed in the center, with a vast blotchy expanse of mosquito netting.  There was a little outdoor bathroom tacked on the back with a cold  water shower, a toilet, and a chipped green wash basin. The place was  just dripping with character and quite comfortable. There was even a  single outlet for charging our various machines.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/bungalow.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2335\" title=\"Cozy Nook\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/bungalow.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/bungalow.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/bungalow-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We drank our  first cup of coffee in the Cozy Nook restaurant. It was Nescafe, so it  was decent, but nothing to write home about. Nescafe is sort of like the  McDonald&#8217;s of coffee. It&#8217;s quite easy to find, and always can be relied  on for consistent mediocrity. From there, we made our way to the cycles.  It had probably been a poor decision, leaving them locked at the  entrance to the beach. Certainly, the crowd of locals who formed to chat  with us and ask the cost of the Speed TRs thought so. We just thanked  goodness they were safe and sound. We asked for a breakfast joint  recommendation only to find that there was no option in our current town  for local breakfast food. It was too touristy. We would need to wheel to  the next city over, about\u00a0 four km away.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5393.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2307\" title=\"Steam Roller\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5393.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5393.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5393-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We were beginning to get  hungry, and all that Nescafe on an empty stomach was beginning to get  uppity, but four km on the Speed TRs seemed manageable, so we took off. Immediately, as I began to pedal, I noticed something was wrong with my  bike. I looked down at my chain and grimaced as I saw what the  issue was. It seemed that the ring had been quite ravaged by the baggage  handlers at Go Air, leaving it bent to such a degree that the wobbling  in the chain threatened to shift the rear gear with every rotation of the pedal.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:center\"><iframe class=\"aw-video\" loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Travel video\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube-nocookie.com\/embed\/FKFD1mMXEX4\" allow=\"fullscreen; picture-in-picture\" allowfullscreen referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">This would need to be dealt with.  But first: food. It was then that we realized we were also out of money.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">The hunger began to lay in more strongly, as we wheeled in search of an ATM,  the damage to my cycle fed into the downward cycle of blood sugar, no  money in the wallet, and mounting despair. When we finally located an  ATM, we were nearing the point of madness. I was able to get some money,  and we should have just eaten at the nearby south Indian coffee house,  but when we looked inside, the madness took hold, and we became scared  that the place was not clean enough.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5390.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2305\" title=\"Wheeling Onwards\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5390.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5390.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5390-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">So we wheeled on. The next city we came  to was filled with uniformed Indian school children, clogging the road, screaming at us, and scurrying to-and-fro in beige pleats. All of them, it  seemed, were recently let loose for a lunch break, and we were barely  able to wheel through the crowd. We did somehow, and finally made it the rest of the way through this city, but still  were unable to find a restaurant that looked like it would not give us  cholera. Both of us were becoming frantic and jittery. My stomach was a  churning pit of coffee that sent electrical shocks through my body, and my  grip on logic and reality was getting quite tenuous.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We turned  around and decided to take a random turn through the midst of the crowd  of children, toward a spot where a number of streams of traffic seemed to be  originating, honking and belching smoke. We wheeled on while the children called out to us, one of them grabbing at my rear rack as we rode by. On  the other side, we were able to find a very crowded and decidedly filthy  restaurant. We were quite delirious by this point, and parking the bikes proved a  harrowing experience, with shop keepers coming out and scolding us for  parking, telling us to move on farther down the street. We finally found  a spot; it elicited some minor complaints but not enough to raise the  shop keeps from where they sat, so we locked the bikes and went into  the restaurant.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">It was crowded and steaming hot inside the long narrow space. No one seemed to  be smiling and we were forced to yell over the  clang and hiss of the kitchen. We sat down, but no one came to take our  order. The other clientele frowned into their food, hitting us with  darting scowls. I have no idea how long we sat there. It could have been three minutes or 30. But finally we just got up and left, climbed back on the  cycles, and rode wordlessly back to the original restaurant we had seen near the  ATM.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265385.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2317\" title=\"The Real Dosa\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265385.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265385.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265385-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">It proved to be delicious. We ate a giant meal of two dosas  each followed by more cups of milky sweet coffee. The feeling of blood sugar returning to my  system was glorious.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5392.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2306\" title=\"Happy Now\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5392.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5392.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5392-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Back on the road, we decided to wheel  north, through the beautiful Goan countryside.\u00a0 We climbed over large  hills, the tops of which were covered with senescent vegetation, and the cracked mud of long forgotten rice paddies.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5409.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2311\" title=\"Passing House\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5409.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5409.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5409-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">This arid desolation was put in  stark contrast with the deep green jungles that lay in the valleys spread out in the mists below us. \u00a0We  took a few detours to explore the surrounding towns.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2323\" title=\"Wheeling Villages\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265403.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265403.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265403-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">Very much unlike  the town we had visited before breakfast, these were all tourist  industry towns, sporting endless rows of little restaurants, guest  houses, and liquor shops. Also of some interest was the prevalence of  signs in Hebrew and Russian, indicating that tourists from such places were  common here. The road quality had diminished greatly from the  impressively smooth main road, and we clattered over potholes and  stretches of course gravel, my wounded Speed TR performing admirably.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265396.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2322\" title=\"Beach House\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265396.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265396.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265396-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">After  a brief waypoint at a nearby beach, we pedaled back to the main road,  which was refreshingly smooth. We followed this uphill for quite some  time, until we reached a kind of arid highland plateau. The heat and the  climb were getting to both of us, so we paused here to purchase  refreshments from a bright blue concrete shop, and take stock of our  situation.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2324\" title=\"Passing River\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265409.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265409.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265409-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We finally decided to turn back for  the day, lest we be trapped on the other side of this great hill, with  little want for the massive climb. So back we went.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265439.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2328\" title=\"Stopping for Lunch\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265439.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265439.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265439-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">It was  certainly time to eat again, when we passed an interesting feminist  restaurant\/commune\/shop. We decided to eat there, and support the cause.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265455.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2332\" title=\"Try a bit of Feminism\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265455.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265455.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265455-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We were far from disappointed at the decision. They served an  interesting organic take on the classic Indian thali, with beet relish,  and a rich fresh vegetable raita.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265462.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2333\" title=\"Best Thali in Goa\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265462.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265462.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/P2265462-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">These were by far the freshest  vegetables we had eaten in a meal for all of our time in India. It felt  good to put something other than fried batters, potatoes, lentils, and  rice into our gullets. Unbeknownst to us, I think the Indian diet was  wearing on our systems, for this meal sticks out quite starkly in my  mind as one that fueled and improved me significantly.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2309\" title=\"Wheeling Home\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5401.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5401.jpg 700w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/IMG_5401-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">We wheeled  the rest of the way back to Palolem Beach at a lazy pace, as we  discussed the finer points of international marketing strategy after re-joining with our friend Sam, whom we had originally met in Cochin.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\"><a href=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/iacocca.jpg\" rel=\"noopener\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2339\" title=\"Iacocca\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/iacocca.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"525\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/iacocca.jpg 525w, https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/03\/iacocca-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 525px) 100vw, 525px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:justify\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We awoke to the sound of the surf in our delightful little bungalow at Cozy Nook. Ours was a little stand-alone hut that hovered about three feet in the air on a set of stilts, and was built from all kinds of found materials &#8211; mostly second-hand bits of wood and plastic, with a number [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,6,10,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2233","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-india","category-scott","category-wheeling","category-woody"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2233","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2233"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2233\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2342,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2233\/revisions\/2342"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2233"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2233"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/asiawheeling.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2233"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}